There’s a feeling you get in Scotland that’s hard to describe. It’s the shiver from a ghost story told in a centuries-old pub, the burn of single malt whisky on a cold day, and the humbling awe of standing in a glen carved by glaciers. Leaving the familiar buzz of London for a 5-day dash through the Highlands felt less like a trip and more like stepping into a history book. If you're short on time but big on ambition, here’s a real-world guide to making it happen.
Day 1: London to Edinburgh & The Royal Mile's Secrets
The journey starts not with a roar, but with the quiet hiss of the LNER Azuma train pulling out of London's King's Cross Station. Pro Tip: Book a window seat on the right-hand side for the best coastal views as you approach Scotland. Four and a half hours later, you're in Edinburgh. After dropping our bags, we headed straight for the Royal Mile. It’s touristy, yes, but for good reason. Duck into the narrow, hidden alleys called 'closes'. Each one has a story, and they offer a quiet escape from the crowds. For dinner, we found a gem called David Bann, a stylish vegetarian restaurant just off the Mile that serves inventive, upscale dishes far beyond the usual pub fare.
Day 2: A Tale of Two Volcanoes
Edinburgh is a city built on ancient volcanoes, and today was about conquering two of them. We started with Castle Rock, home to the magnificent Edinburgh Castle. My advice? Buy your tickets online in advance to skip the notoriously long queues. The highlight for me wasn't the Crown Jewels, but the tiny St. Margaret's Chapel, the oldest building in the city. In the afternoon, we tackled the bigger challenge: Arthur's Seat. It’s a proper hike, not a casual stroll, so wear good shoes. The 360-degree view from the top, with the wind whipping around you, is the ultimate reward and the best photo spot in the city.
Insider Tip: For a truly special evening, book a whisky and folklore tour. Hearing ancient tales of fairies and kelpies while sipping a smoky Islay malt adds a whole new layer to the experience.
Day 3: The Highland Main Line to Inverness
The ScotRail journey from Edinburgh to Inverness is one of the world's great train rides. It slices through the heart of the Cairngorms National Park, a landscape of purple heather and vast, empty moors. Arriving in Inverness, the "Capital of the Highlands," feels like reaching a new frontier. After settling in, we took a local bus (Route 17) to Loch Ness. Forget the tourist traps at the main visitor centre; instead, walk a portion of the South Loch Ness Trail. It’s quieter, more atmospheric, and you feel a genuine sense of mystery as you gaze across the dark, peat-stained water. We didn't find Nessie, but the profound silence of the loch was just as mythical.
Day 4: The Unbelievable Isle of Skye
The Isle of Skye is not a place you can casually visit; it demands your full attention. We opted for a small-group day tour from Inverness, which I highly recommend over a large coach. It’s a long day (around 12 hours), but utterly worth it. The highlight was the hike at the Quiraing, a landslip that has created a landscape so surreal it feels like a movie set. The iconic Old Man of Storr is another essential stop, but be prepared for crowds. The real magic of Skye is found in the moments between the big sights—the sudden appearance of a rainbow over a loch, or a herd of Highland cows blocking the single-track road.
Day 5: One Last Highland Stroll
Before the long train ride back to London, we spent our final morning exploring the islands in the River Ness, connected by elegant Victorian footbridges right in the centre of Inverness. It’s a peaceful, beautiful walk that feels a world away from the city centre. It was the perfect, quiet end to a whirlwind trip, a moment to absorb the wild beauty of the Highlands before returning to the urban sprawl.
Travel Tips & Guide
- Booking Trains: Book your LNER train from London to Edinburgh and ScotRail trains well in advance for the best prices.
- Packing: Scottish weather is notoriously unpredictable. Pack layers, a waterproof jacket, and sturdy walking shoes, even in summer.
- Accommodation: Book your hotels or B&Bs in Edinburgh and Inverness ahead of time, especially during peak season.
- Local Food: Many pubs offer a fantastic vegetarian haggis with neeps and tatties (turnips and potatoes). Also, don't miss out on the delicious Cranachan dessert (oats, cream, whisky, and raspberries) and a dram of single malt whisky.